Manja KL Review
Words: Anna Chew Photos: Rich Callahan
Old Malaya is a time in the history of Malaysia that reflects the multicultural influences brought in by the Chinese, Indian, British, Dutch and other such nations. Located in the food and beverage strip of Old Malaya, Manja KL aims to recapture some of the old Malayan flavours. Along with modern colonial cuisine, the pre-war conservation building built in 1919, sets the atmosphere.
Located not far from the KL Tower (a magnificent sight on a clear night), one can enjoy the new alfresco space on a cool evening sipping co*cktails and nibbling on bites while watching the skyline change.
Manja KL
Settling in, co*cktails are a good introduction. We had the Palm Rum (RM36), a concoction of Dark Caribbean rum with a splash of Aperol and Manja-made grapefruit bitters, palm sugar, sharp lime juice and green apple foam. This co*cktail offers a sweeter note, with splashes of bitterness and acidity. We highly recommend the Tropical Mist (RM42), with a Martell VSOP base and finished with a drop of Lagavulin. This was a tasty twist on a whiskey sour! Lime and passionfruit provide sweetness while smokiness from the peated scotch whisky rounds the co*cktail.
Manja KL Menu
Manja KL’s food menu comprises Small Plates (appetizers), Medium Plates (mains) and Large Plates (platters for sharing). There are also several gluten-free and vegetarian items. Manja means “to pamper.” Their philosophy is to ensure that diners receive attentive service not just at the table but also benefit from care in the preparation of their dishes. For example, bones are removed from fish and seafood is deshelled; guests have nothing to do but enjoy.
Chef Navin Karu is chief Food Innovator of Manja, but also the proprietor of Vin’s and a butchery, The Food Company. The latter partnership ensures only the best quality protein is used in the kitchen. Meats are mostly antibiotic-free, grass-fed and chilled, not frozen. The remaining fresh produce is sourced locally where possible.
An amuse-bouche of grilled, spiced corn and tomato confit with balsamic reduction was our tasty beginning.
Appetizers
For appetizers, the Roasted Eggplant & Black Sesame Hummus (GF/V) (RM34) was a fantastic combination of flavours and textures. The eggplant had a kick of spice and a nice crunch from the candied cashews, walnuts and dates. The Black Sesame Hummus was served with organic Jersey milk cherry mozzarella and handmade sweet potato chips, which we just could not put down.
Another delicious starter was the Borneo Coconut Tuna (GF/V) (RM36), which made a smoking entrance. The sustainable line-caught yellowfin tuna from Sabah was served sashimi style. It was fresh and went really well with the coconut tartar and crushed cashews.
Mains
For mains, the Tamarind Chilli Mustard Fish (GF) (market price) is prepared with the catch of the day; perch in this case. It was beautifully composed with a special chilli mustard marinade and a ginger-infused coconut cream sauce topped with Java-tamarind stir-fried vegetables. Packed with flavour, this main is sure to fill.
The Pommery Lamb & Hummus (GF) (RM96) was made on grilled New Zealand grass-fed lamb seasoned with garlic, tarragon, pepper and mustard. Black sesame hummus with black olives, grapes and tomatoes came alongside Manja’s signature thrice-cooked potatoes crisped with duck fat. This is a memorable dish, with an unexpected mix of ingredients doing surprisingly well together.
Dessert
Summer Truffle Cocoa Mousse (GF) (RM28), made from Valrhona chocolate infused with truffle oil, was a unique conclusion. It was savoury, sweet and creamy and all in one mouthful: very clever.
Manja KL Review
Manja KL offers a unique menu not likely to be found elsewhere in KL or even the world. The recipes are both attractive to the eye and the palate. It’s a great place to visit when you are looking for some creative inspiration.
Reasons to visit Manja KL: attractive setting; prettily plated recipes; unique flavour combinations and creatively composed recipes.
Manja KL Restaurant
6 Lorong Raja Chulan
Kuala Lumpur, 50250, Malaysia
+60123737063
www.manja.com.my
* Do note that parking is limited on this short stretch of road. After 5 pm, valet service is available at RM15 nett. Alternatively, you could park at one of the retail blocks a little further down the block, or just catch a Grab.
Manja KL Opening Hours
Sunday to Thursday: 12 noon – 12 pm
Friday & Saturday: 12 noon – 1 am
(Kitchen breaks in the late afternoon between lunch and dinner service)
Find our first visit to Manja here and other restaurants in Old Malaya here and here.
